The image of opportunities…
The image of opportunities…
October 15, 2013
Padova, Italy – So Soon, the design and consulting agency specializing in the eyewear industry founded by Italian designer Matteo Livans, whose portfolio includes works for brands as Hugo Boss and Valentino, announces the opening of the eyewear Manufacturing Division. Aimed to provide small and large clients with the highest quality frames and sunglasses made on their behalf, So Soon will be a reference point for the Made in Italy eyewear production.
“We believe there is a void in the marketplace for an independent resource that can provide not just the finest Italian production itself, but also the design and business assistance to help a brand build a cohesive eyewear collection”, Livans said. “So Soon has set strategic alliances with the finest premium factories and independent workshops located in Italy and mostly unknown to the mass, way we’re able to turnkey supply the 100% Italian handmade eyewear that best meets each specific need whilst providing our clients with our expertise in design and marketing”.
Ranging acetate to metals and injection, So Soon can produce everything from customized molded parts to bespoke limited editions and complete frames collections. The capabilities cover the entire cycle from design and development to prototyping and fully certified products, using exclusively the finest Italian materials and employing only local personnel.
So Soon is currently opening up to luxury brands, fashion houses and private labels, entering into agreements with brand owners who aim to produce and trade their own lines, possibly in their own stores. “The launch of our Manufactury Division comes at a time when premium brands need to sharpen their game to bring to market products that reasonate with their customers: product quality and selected distribution have never been so essential for achieving the goal”, said Antonio Piazza, So Soon’s business development manager. “Whether there is the need to relocate the production of an existing eyewear collection in Italy, or there is the plan to manufacture a new line through an experienced partner, So Soon has the facilities, the design and the expertise required, allowing the client to keep under control the whole project through a single point of contact”.
Moved by the same innovative spirit which drove the foundation of So Soon, Livans’ team is betting on the Made in Italy as a winning choice, being committed to support and promote the independent Italian production chain. “As home to most of the eyewear industry, Italy prides itself in having the best design, materials and craftsmanship available–an excellence which is the envy of the world”, Livans said. “It’s So Soon‘s mission and responsibility to protect this heritage and to bring the Italian eyewear culture to the International audience”.
So Soon is an FDA certified manufacturer.
Additional information can be found at:
+39 348 8357166
The classic wayfarer design is one of the most iconic, notorious, reinterpreted masterpieces of the eyewear industry.
Credited as the best-selling design of sunglasses in history – togheter with the Ray-Ban Aviator – the Wayfarer have been called a classic of modern design and one of the most enduring fashion icons of the 20th century, been able to rival mid-century design classics such as the Eames chair and the Cadillac tail fins.
Designed in 1952 by American optical designer Raymond Stegeman, the Wayfarer sunglasses have been manufactured by Ray-Ban since 1956. At that time, their design was a revolutionary break from the metal eyewear of the past, and it has been able to mark the transition between a period of eyewear made from thin metal frames to an era of plastic eyewear.
Thanks to its radically new shape and to the masculine look, Wayfarer soon enjoyed early popularity in the 50′s and 60′s. Though it had faded from the limelight by the 70′s, a lucrative 1982 product placement deal brought these iconic shades to their height of cultural popularity: from the classic film The Blues Brothers to iconic tv series such as Miami Vice, the Wayfarer started to appear in hundreds of movies, tv shows and music videos, wearing faces such as Tom Cruise, Michael Jackson and Madonna who actually marked the beginning of a Wayfarer phenomenon.
As the 90′s began, the frame again became unpopular. The 50′s revival that fueled the glasses’ popularity in the 80′s had lost steam, and Wayfarers were outcompeted by wraparound, thiner frames. Ray-Ban made some small changes to the model, with the intention to update the frame’s popularity during a period of unpopularity, but without noteworthy success. It’s been since the mid-2000s, togheter with the advent of the vintage phenomenon, that the Wayfarer have been ejoying a revival which is already lasting today: the definitive recognition of the Wayfarer as an iconic masterpiece in the history of design.
According to WGSN forecast, the 2015 spring/summer season’s overriding theme is going to be Neo Materialism.
Over the last four decades we have witnessed dematerialisation in various fields: paper documents became digital, money became credit, brand names became more important than products, art became concept, and our lives moved, at least partially, online. As a reaction to this, we are now witnessing a growing interest in “thingness” (a term referring to objects that have physical presence, create an emotional response and have a connection to the place they were made). Artists, designers and consumers are seeking a more tangible appreciation of the world around them.
So Soon has identified 3 s/s 2015 macro trends with concrete applications for fashion eyewear.
In this trend, the material world comes into sharp focus, as a reaction to virtual living. This is not to say that we are turning our backs on technology, but that we are using it as a means to connect to our surroundings. The objects associated with this trend encourage exploiting the heritage, contemplation and emotional response and connect us to a specific environment. Looking deep, focusing on the moment, appreciating the content and a sense of humanism form the basis of this direction.
Essence means concreteness. Tangible substance. Intrinsic value. In a nutshell, essence means quality. The Essence trend suggest the need for superior manufactured eyewear products, and for a care for structures and details which can be phisically perceptible by the consumers. Those consumers are demanding for quality not just in the materic aspect itself, but in the narrative values given through intangible contents, they ask for products able to convey a level of emotional intensity more effectively than ever before: frames and sunglasses which will fulfill the desire to capture the “thingness” (the origins and materiality of an object) in the products will be distinguishing during the next season. The manufacturing process behind the product, the quality of the materials, and the place where the frames are physically created are making the difference. The Essence eyewear trend sees tangible quality definitely standing out any brand’s logo.
• The material world comes into sharp focus
• Objects have a sense of “thingness” – a material presence
• Local experience is translated through design
• We see the valorization of old techniques and craft forms
• Physical quality is replacing brand and logo
History Reloaded reconsiders the past and creates new products for imagined worlds and futures that may once have seemed improbable – even impossible. Modern scientists and those designers with an eye on the future are working on projects where reality collides with what seems like magic – from bringing back extinct creatures such as mammoths and dodos, to building floating hotels in the desert. Developments in science are fuelling the “de-extinction” movement, in which attempts are made to bring extinct animals and plants back to life. At the same time, designers are using fictional stories to develop products for our imagined future. The seemingly impossible has become a wondrous new inspiration for product development.
The birth of new machines is changing future design processes, leading us into a crafted industrial age. Right now, manufacture is in a state of flux, oscillating between the digital and analogue eras. This trend looks at this moment of transition and the design it is inspiring – open-source, unstable systems, improvised form, organic prototypes, and design by intuition. Eyewear inspired by this trend are products which will merge traditional manufacturing techniques and forms with advanced technologies and new applications. Embedded virtual technologies, imaginative functionalities and multi-purposes structures will be no more exclusive preserve of avantgarde projects such as Google Glass, but will find concrete applications in the daily use for more traditional, basic frames and sunglasses collections.
• We design with wild imagination
• De-extinction inspires us to reimagine the future
• Designers make products for a fictional future
• The improbable is a new area of exploration
• We see the resurrection of antique techniques
This trend sees the way we understand form, structures and even our own bodies completely revolutionised. It inspires us to create products and systems based on the fluid intelligence of basic microbial life forms. Scientists, sociologists, artists and designers are embracing the mutability and unpleasantness of slime and bacteria, finding hidden secrets in the vital substance of life. Cultural theories look towards the vibrancy and vitality of basic life forms as a way of understanding contemporary culture.
With our bodies now being understood as “microbial rainforests” rather than as purely mammalian, scientists are uncovering a revolutionary new form of human biology. Following this inspiration, design is inspired by the complex collective biological workings of simple life forms. Fluid shapes replace hard structuralism as artists and designer’s play with the aesthetics of ooze and goo. The strict, clean lines of modernism are melted, morphed and liquefied. The overall look is a celebration of dynamic styles and vibrant colours, constantly shifting prints and free-flowing forms, where tropical, urban, rural or coastal become a fluid blend of categories. The application in the eyewear field sees new ways to use materials and combinations of shapes and colors: bio-dynamic structures, natural elements and byological textures inspire the eyewear design resulting in spectacles and sunglasses with complex and organic structures, variant patterns and fluid overlays. Elements such as multilayered acetates, over-injections and combinations of unusual materials are concrete declination of this trend.
• Basic life forms teach us about networking and navigating big data
• Human biology is revolutionised with the human microbiome
• Think fluid and free-flowing
• Organic and gloopy aesthetic is replacing clinical modernism.
• We celebrate nature in all its aspects – pleasant and unpleasant
The curtain has come down on what has been another successful season of Paris Fashion Week. After London and Milan, the parisiennes men’s catwalks confirmed sport as the overarching theme for the spring/summer 2014 menswear with an eclectic and youthful mix of surf and outdoor influences, blooming florals and varsity styles.
Sports-influenced style was the dominant story at all the 3 of the Big Four fashion weeks where a commercial blend of casual tailoring, energized sports function and bold new pattern directions were on show in a strong season for casual outerwear. Through different takes, fashion houses as Iceberg, Richmond, Moncler, Moschino, as well as iconic Maisons such as Gucci, Ferragamo and Calvin Klein offered a splicing of sportswear feel, functional aesthetics and low-slung silhouettes resulting in a relaxed street style that confirms the positive energy forecasted for this season.
Many consumers want to know the difference between frames that look the same but are significantly different in price. Brand’s factor apart, typically there’s a difference in quality.
Understanding differences in frames quality it’s not just a matter of aesthetics: the finest frames are not only stylish and flattering but are expertly crafted and assembled for longer wear and maintain their original appearance without cracking, discoloring or corroding.
Besides the material – which quality is one of the main factors that make the difference in the overall result – the most important thing to look for in a frame is if it is mechanically sound. Hinges should be solidly secured to ensure smooth opening and closing and should have centesimal tolerances, a result which can be obtained by high precision tooling and high-tech production processes. For metal structures, the frame should also have sturdy solder points at the bridge, nose pad, and temple area.
The proportion of the whole structure itself, as well as the balance in thickness and volumes, is another point that make the difference in quality. Generally, good acetate frames come with solid fronts and an optimized proportion between the part of the frame around the lenses and the structure of the bridge.
Next, a frame should have a good visual appearance. Oftentimes, the materials used to make many of the cheaper frames don’t always hold up and lack the quality finishes protecting the frame material from discoloring. A good quality frame should be corrosion and heat resistant, and have an unblemished, highly polished finish. For metal frames, a quality galvanic make the difference, providing a superior aesthetic result whilst offering full protection from nichel and other allergens.
Lastly, a quality frame should have a proper fitting. It should feel comfortable on the face and have a straight, balanced look to it.
The So Soon team
The schedule for the Milan Fashion Week has arrived.
As usual, Corneliani will open the door, followed by Ermenegildo Zegna, which will stage one show instead of two, in Piazza VI Febbraio, instead of its usual location in Via Savona.
Up-and-coming designer, Andrea Pompilio, will use Armani’s show space in Via Bergognone to stage his show.
The programme includes 37 shows in four days, from June 22 to 25.
Versace, Prada, Bottega Veneta Gucci and Fendi will also show, including two new entries, Andrea Incontri, who has already shown at Milan’s Women’s Wear Fashion Week, Chinese fashion designer Ji Wenbo. Philipp Plein will be adding some drama to the traditional runway walk with his much-awaited fashion show, one of the most talked-about happenings during Milan Fashion Week. Burberry Prorsum, and Enrico Coveri will not take part this season, as well as Moschino, who has chosen to show in Shanghai.
Dolce & Gabbana are not included in the calendar, as requested.
Giorgio Armani will close the week with his show scheduled for the morning of June 25, while the Emporio Armani show is scheduled for June 24.
France-based trend forecasting firm Peclers Paris has released the Women’s and the Man’s Spring Summer 2014 Fashion Trend Books, featuring a forward looking research with the main trends for womenswear and menswear as well. We’ve started from their brilliant, keen view of the market to develop our macro trends insight for the next season with a focus on eyewear.
A RENEWED NEED FOR BEAUTY
Despite certain markets are currently facing a rapid growth, a financial chaos is still going on at a global level. A couple seasons ago, from the idea that the global downturn started on 2008 was definetely over, an aftershock reaction to having lived through serious cut-backs has emerged, generating a pressing demand for beautiness and superb aesthetic to the fashion and the design world.
Aesthetic at any cost has suddenly become the primary, urgent antidote to the dark times which society had to live with for a few years, as an istinctive gesture for leaving the worsth behind. Catwalks and showrooms have been filled with extravagant combinations and oversized shapes, but that attitude has soon proved to be an attempt to excorcise the gosths of an economic crash rather than the result of a genuine new energy. In many cases, that attitude has being generating more ridicolousness than true beauty.
Unfortunately, the crisis was not over. As a bad joke, people had to face another, worse slap: the crisis has being assuming different traits over time showing itself as a complex set of multiple components which still has no end in sight. As a result, the fashion market has interpreted this cultural climate: last 2 seasons have been marked by moderation as well as a strong need for pragmatism imposed by recession. We have eventually witnessed the high-end fashion to be gathering inspiration and ideas from the fast fashion – an attitude never seen before – in an attempt to get closer to a new consumer who is getting more and more distant from the concept of ‘brand’ and who is more and more attentive to the concept of ‘value’.
A significant segment of our advanced society is still fighting daily with the long lasting crisis. A general mood of expectation and reflection about the future is perceivable in the markets as people is fed up with crisis and with the continuous sense of uncertainty, though valuable signs of recovery have actually been coming up from different industry segments over the last months. Despite these encouraging signals, people is now no longer available to bet blindly on the present, customers are now more conscious and too mature to get caught from the enthusiasm and to follow the excesses once again.
Last requests to the fashion and design world reflect this cultural evolution, suggesting that a renewed attitude for beauty is emerging, mitigated by an evolved approach towards consumption which is resulting in a well-balanced blend of sophisticated discretion and exuberant richness. A widespread need for positive and realistic ideas is definitely going to be the main trend for the next year.
SHY FLASHES OF ENERGY – THE MEN’S BALANCED APPROACH
As it concerns the optical industry, for the last few seasons men’s fashion eyewear actually didn’t offer such relevant innovations. A return of the 80′s has been one of the most visible trends for men’s eyewear, as well as flat bridges and new interpretations of evergreen Moscot-like and preppy shapes. After that, not much has been offered from the men’s eyewear market.
According to Peclers’ take, summer 2014 menswear will be characterized by imagination and creative energy. For the eyewear market it actually means that we hopefully will see more creativity on shapes, combinations and themes than what we’ve recently seen. Spring/Simmer 2014 will offer glimpses of innovation and new interpretations of traditional themes for the men’s opticals ans sunglasses, with the addition of a dandy twist. In any case, we should not expect to see such an insane wave of novelty nor significantly new trends, as the big eyewear companies are still pretty prudent in offering products which may even contain valuable sign of creativity but which potentially might not create such great sales turnovers: a classic wave of traditional frames, simple structures and vintage taste is then expected to be still a solid trend in fashion eyewear.
The macro-trends identified by Peclers indicate the tracks that men’s fashion will take. They are pretty interesting and give challenging imputs to the eyewear design industry.
The Sublimed story is a noteworthy tendence forecasted for the 2014. It offers a modern and poetic expression of the nostalgic trend, taking inspiration from traditional elegance crossed with the techniques of today.
Psyche marks not only the return of fantasy but also the tailing off of the preppy influence in favor of a more seventies dandy style, teaming chic with eccentricity.
Intersections story is in line with ecoaware trends. Il embodies a decidedly sleek, modern view of cross-cultural blends.
Explosive demonstrates a desire for easier and more direct appeal that is both glam and manly, inspired by the great mythical figures that formed the models of masculinity.
Lastly, when it comes to structure, Peclers is offering a forward-looking take on the 4 segments that matter today (SMART, URBAN, UPPER CASUAL and CASUAL). As we see, 4 keywords that once again suggest a down-to-earth, meditated take on menswear fashion despite the introduction of a perceptible creative impetus comparing to the last, generally pretty boring season. This is the time when the different Maisons’ creative skills and abilities to interpret the trends will really make the difference in the men’s eyewear market.
CONFORTABLY NUMB – WHAT IT FEELS LIKE FOR A GIRL IN 2014
Uncertain periods and confused times give anxiety. Add the feeling of everlasting uncertainty to a sufficiently long timeframe, and you will obtain a relaxed sense of confortable resignation. Womenswear 2014 is the delicate, perfectly suited interpretation of this image: we can summarize this womenswear season by the paradox sophisticated simplicity through 3 fundamental ideas according to Peclers.
- The emergence of a more relaxed attitude: we want to slip easily into the everyday situations of business trips, voyages or work. To meet these needs, we will discover supple, functional wardrobes with well-thought-out, elegant designs. Translated to eyewear, cross-over unisex fitting will be a standard.
- The influence of the Haute Couture style during its renewal period in the 50’s is confirmed. Shapes are precisely defined and follow the body’s morphology. Silhouettes are darted, slashed or undulating, sculpted or puffy. This approach is not only seen in dressy wardrobes: we show easy translations for the eyewear, as well as for the everyday lifestyle.
- There is a quest for modern strictness with mix & match. Total-look will come back, with the idea of simplifying to create a strong, clear impact through new, coordinated outfits. An opportunity for eyewear and sunglasses to offer frames and styles which integrate the seasonal themes of the fashion collections.
What shall we expect for the next season in ladies eyewear? A delicate balance of tradition and innovation. Established shapes such as the wayfarer, the round and the feminine cat-eye will be reinterpreted with new mixes of materials and details, as an intention to give a contemporary touch to the heritage.
COLORS FOR THE NEXT SEASON
Color is definitely going to be no longer a separate chapter, but integral part of the fashion design itself, in clothes as well in accessories and eyewear: the season’s colors range is ever more sophisticated, addressing consumers now used to subtler or bolder palettes and color combinations.
The frontier between neutrals and colors is ever finer: intermediate tones are omnipresent. Even though each range evokes a specific mood, they can also play different roles and expand their options.
This permeability has unexpected effects: luxuriant exoticism and hybridization take a more sober and graphic turn, while modernity and simplicity, evolving in an opposite direction, are richer and more sensual. Majesty and sweetness are the keywords.
After pastels, neons and brights, tangy tones now embody the essential upbeat and fresh summer mood.
Preciousness is fundamental: in a delicate and complex vein, it updates pastels, and in a flashy and kitsch spirit, it perks up neutrals.
Mock blacks, charred or cool: browns, already strong in winter 13-14, continue to expand in summer and diversify into a wider array of shades.
Pink is essential. Flattering and optimistic, it displays its many facets: basic, couture, naïve, floral, cosmetic…
Lastly, white is everywhere: it refreshes, illuminates or infuses a graphic edge to all the ranges. Candid is the strongest new trend for next season.
© 2013 http://www.sosoon.it/blog. May not be reproduced without permission.